Marilena Criscuolo met us on the steps of the Duomo in Milan where we started our tour. She has both a deep love for and intimate knowledge of this landmark. From Marilena we learned the lessons enshrined for past generations of people, many of them illiterate, in the stained-glass windows, together with information about the building’s construction, its funding and maintenance, its centuries of history and its amazing sculptures. Marilena also shared with us the complicated history of the city while showing us lovely neighborhoods and buildings, including Storza Castle, La Scalla and the city’s beautiful shopping arcade, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Without her guidance we would have missed many details, such as the significance of the Galleria’s mosaics. From her we learned about Milan’s canals, regional food specialties and other places to visit. The tour, which Marilena crafted to address our specific interests, far exceeded our expectations. We hope to return and have the opportunity for her to show and teach us more about her amazing city. J and D Thompson