Elisabeth was knowledgeable, enthusiastic, a bit theatrical, and curious about us. Her love of this city and its history is plainly sincere. We couldn't have had a better three-hour introduction to Marseille (and the Greeks who founded it, and the Mob that ran it, and the city leaders who advised the Nazis on which neighborhoods to bomb). We may have been a little hungry at the end of our long walk but had you given us a few inches of baguette and a cup of coffee, we would gladly have followed Elisabeth for another three hours.