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Marrakesh attracts movie stars - but Fes steals the show. Morocco's third-largest city offers the chance to see the country's history, culture and religion from street level. But exploring the sprawling Fes el Bali medina without getting lost or accosted by overzealous carpet salesmen can be a challenge, so book a private Fes tour and exploring the labyrinth-like lanes of the old city with a local guide. Entering the medina is like stepping back in time. Watch cargo being loaded from trucks onto donkeys at the Bab Boujeloud - Blue Gate - then follow your guide on a disorienting series of twists and turns into the heart of the teeming marketplace, where you can shake hands and share tea with bakers, tailors and spice vendors. If you've come to shop, your guide will ensure you don't get pay exorbitant prices or get cheated by conmen. But if all you want is to look, listen and learn, be assured you won't be pressured to purchase anything - which in Morocco, is priceless.
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